WEEK 2024
DISCOVER MORE FROM LONDON FASHION WEEK...
MEET THE ARTISTS
FRESH OFF THE RUNWAY
DREAMING ELI
‘MYTHICAL, SHIPWRECKED SIRENS’ AT DREAMING ELI
“Inspired by underwater ship wrecked sirens, she’s glistening, she’s glowing, she’s romantic. Creams, pigments, it’s a real mixed metals season. There’s a lot of contouring, there’s a lot of structure to the lip. Opalescent mother of pearl skin with a real lady like pout. It’s just about making the girls look as sensual and aspirational as they can be.” Carly Utting, Senior Artist, MAC Cosmetics
Makeup by Carly Utting and the MAC Pro Team.
FRESH OFF THE RUNWAY
FASHION EAST: NUBA
‘SIMULATION’ AT NUBA
Shortly after graduating from Central Saint Martins’ MA (Menswear) program in 2020, designer Cameron Williams launched his clothing label Nuba with “the intention of shifting perspectives of how people perceive nuances in culture and the experience of growing up in a foreign environment”. With a deft hand for tailoring, Williams challenges classical ideas of elegance. “By bringing in these different cultural elements from our parents, our mothers, I wanted to add a uniqueness to the idea of elegance and redefine what that means in a luxury setting,” he explains. Now, Williams’ long-time friend and creative collaborator Jebi Labembika joins Nuba as co-creative director, helping to weave the ideas that underpin the label into fresh narratives.
Makeup by Romero Jennings and the MAC Pro Team.
FRESH OFF THE RUNWAY
FASHION EAST: KITTY SHUKMAN
SWEATY GRUNGY SKIN’ AT KITTY SHUKMAN
Kitty Shukman is one of this generation’s most skilled sneaker designers. But she could have just as easily been a philosopher, a fact that becomes abundantly clear after talking to her for a few minutes. Every question asked or topic broached is met with considered, sometimes abstract, but always interesting thoughts. That same philosophical approach is evident in Shukman’s process and work.
After spending time at YEEZY, Shukman is currently working as a freelance designer, which gives her the freedom to pick and choose her clients and allows her to more closely align with people and brands that share her values. Her portfolio has grown since leaving YEEZY, and she’s able to leave her very distinct mark on different parts of the industry.
Makeup by Romero Jennings and the MAC Pro team.
FRESH OFF THE RUNWAY
FASHION EAST: LOUTRE
‘HUMID DEWY SKIN’ AT LOUTRE
Born out of the necessity to work within the constraints of modernity, loutre is a narrative woven from the chaotic beauty of london’s landscape, the transient nature of youth, and the unfiltered realities of modern life.
Each collection is a narrative - the start of a dialogue with those who are open to hear it - where the seams of culture are undone, laid bare and redone for all to see. Loutre celebrates the intrigue of imperfection, inviting wearers to embrace the grey area between finished and unfinished, where construction and reconstruction meet.
Makeup by Romero Jennings and the MAC Pro Team.
FRESH OFF THE RUNWAY
PATRICK MCDOWELL
‘HIGH GLOW SKIN’ AT PATRICK MCDOWELL
Patrick Mcdowell is an independent brand based in the heart of London with a passion for sustainability and philanthropy. Founded in 2018 by designer Patrick McDowell, the brand has solidified itself as a leading voice on the global fashion stage that embodies the designer’s mission for reinventing luxury through a sustainable mindset. After graduating from the prestigious Central Saint Martins, McDowell has strived to reinvent the role of a fashion designer as we know it today. Showcasing his debut collection at London Fashion Week in 2018, the designer has since captivated the industry whilst gaining the recognition of titans who share Patrick’s vision for redesigning and creating an accessible circular solution and system that creativity can flourish within.
“Streetwise red carpet, high fashion meets high drama, luxurious skin with a barbed wire eye” Dominic Skinner, Director of Makeup Artistry, M.A.C Cosmetics.
Makeup by Dominic Skinner and the MAC Pro Team.
FRESH OFF THE RUNWAY
AHLUWALIA
‘SUNSET LIP’ AT AHLUWALIA
“I was trying to play homage to Priya’s heritage because this collection is all about Jamaica and India and the idea of being home. And when we think about home, it doesn’t matter what time it is or where you are going, you come looking your best.. Glowy skin is a must! We played with warm colours - the reds, the oranges, whilst enhancing the natural lips.” – Mata Marielle for MAC COSMETICS
Makeup by Mata Marielle and the MAC Pro Team
FRESH OFF THE RUNWAY
RICHARD QUINN
’90s NEUTRALS WITH A SUPERMODEL TWIST’ AT RICHARD QUINN
London born designer Richard Quinn honed his skills at Christian Dior and Savile Row before establishing his eponymous label in 2017. Specialising in womenswear and printed textiles, his collections are bold and emotive. Quinn creates garments with attention to innovative fabrications, combining unique handcrafted skill with a refined high fashion sensibility. His work is characterised by a desire to create couture-inspired sensibility with an edge.
“This season there’s so many references to punk, grunge, goth. Neutral tones, browns, greys, elongated on the eye and the lip. Giving it a modern twist with no liner and no mascara. It gives a bit of romance.” – Terry Barber, Global Creative Director of Artistry MAC COSMETICS
Makeup by Terry Barber and the MAC Pro Team.
FRESH OFF THE RUNWAY
ROKSANDA
‘ROMANTIC REGENCY SKIN’ AT ROKSANDA
“The story of the makeup is really inspired by the National Portrait Gallery. So looking at regency artwork, paintings, portraits, creating skin that just looks perfectly flawless and is wealthy but with a rawness to it. The models look like they are not made up, but instead perfectly untouched, very much real skin, this Edwardian quality. Some of them then have this gorgeous, pillowy Blackcurrent Lip. It’s very dark but surprisingly with the very cool, flawless skin it doesn’t feel out of place. It’s that idea of the first day of Spring, opening the kitchen door and letting the air in. This sort of crispness that makes you feel good because you know Summers coming. It’s sharp and crisp.” Dominic Skinner, Director of Makeup Artistry, MAC Cosmetics.
Makeup by Dominic Skinner and the MAC Pro Team.
FRESH OFF THE RUNWAY
MARQUES ALMEIDA
‘70s BLUE AND CANDY PINK’ AT MARQUES ALMEIDA
“Very pearly, 70s eyeshadow that almost looks like Lurex. We’re doing what I call this very dodgy 70s blue, that people’s Mum’s might have worn back then. It’s in this shape that’s up to the eyebrow, as if you’ve put your thumb in the pan and streaked it across the eyelids. We’ve then got the strong bubblegum pink in this round halo. All the shapes are a little bit wrong, a little bit clumsy and awkward. Historically Marques has this history of denim which we’ve reflected in the blue and then the pink was inspired by the florals in the current collection. We’ve gone a little bit more luxe with the skin, polished with a little bit of ‘I’ve been to the Mediterranean’ bronzer. Then with a statement eye, one of my favourite things is to play with the natural pink of the lip. We’re using the clear M.A.ximal Sleek Satin Lipstick, the perfect balmed lip that’s not super glossy, which comes from having this lipstick formula with no pigment. People want to be enhanced with makeup, there’s lots of nuances in beauty at the moment - where people don’t want to look like they’ve got it on, but want to be polished. Like you’ve filtered your picture, or you’re a bit AI. ” - Terry Barber, Global Creative Director of Artistry MAC COSMETICS
Makeup by Tery Barber and the MAC Pro Team.
